I ordered the Duke 1112 trap over traps made by Havaheart and Tomahawk. I had previously owned Haveaheart traps, and found them to be inferior overall. As for TomahawkI, I cancelled a pending order with them due to shoddy customer service on their part. The Duke 1112 trap looked like the perfect trap, especially to catch a wily raccoon that was plaguing my property.
Delivery of the trap from Fleming Traps was prompt. It arrived via UPS ground with a scratch or two, and a dent that made it sit less than level, but nothing that I couldn’t live with. The trap is very, very sturdy. A few things could be improved, however. Overall, all things considered, I would give the Duke 1112 trap a “3†on a 5 point scale.
I used “dry runs†for 6 nights to get my coon used to entering the trap. I placed the bait at the back of the trap beyond the trip plate. The next morning, the bait would be gone. On night 7, I baited the trap and set the trigger. I was amazed to discover that the raccoon was able to get the bait without triggering the trap. This was repeated on night 8.
I started examining the trap more closely to figure out why the trap was not triggered. I found some things that I considered deficiencies: [1] The horizontal trigger rod fits into a “notch†so as to keep the door open. Contact with the trip plate causes the trigger rod to come out of the notch, and the door then closes. However, my notch was cut too deep. A great amount of pressure on the trip plate was required to cause the trigger rod to come out of the notch and the door to close. I decided to file the notch down so that it was shallow, and thus more sensitive to the slightest pressure applied to the trip plate. This was a “go slow†procedure. Too much filing would eliminate the notch to the point where the trigger rod could not be set, and would not hold. My patience and constant testing paid off. I managed to file enough off so the rod would hold while being sensitive to even slight pressure on the trip plate. I also filed the paint off the contact point so as to make the metal to metal contact point smooth. [2] In my opinion, the angle of the trip plate is too steep when the trigger is set. It needs to have a lower profile. This would make it more sensitive, say to a foot or paw being placed on it. A longer vertical rod from the trip plate to the trigger rod would serve to lower the profile of the trip plate making it flatter. [3] The other deficiency concerns the non-use of galvanized metal. My trap started rusting in a matter of about 3 days. This was seen where the paint had either come off or wasn’t applied, notably around the nuts and dooor. [4] My raccoon proved that he was able to fish the bait out of the back of the trap without setting it off or entering the trap. He was able to get his hand through the narrow slots surrounding the bait area. I used cable ties to attach “hardware cloth†to the back of the trap to stop this. I also attached it on both sides, the top, and even the bottom. This prevents fishing the bait out, as well as contact with the trigger rod from outside the trap.
I am pleased to report that filing the notch down to make it more shallow, and filing the rmetal to metal contact point smooth, worked to make the trigger sensitive. I caught a possum when I placed the trap back in service, but not a raccoon. Indeed, my wily coon stood back and watched the possum get caught! Then ran away. I doubt it will go into the trap after seeing what happened to the possum that did.
Sturdy.
Trigger needs to be more sensitive. Notch holding trigger rod was cut too deep.
Trip plate angle is too steep. Needs a lower, flatter profile. Steep angle discourages entry. Flatter profile would encourage trigger release.
Use of non-galvanized steel or metal in construction.
Rusted quickly after being placed in service.